In a charming courtyard, not far from Wiedikon train station, hides a culinary gem – the 'Franz,' an acronym for 'Frauen im Zentrum' (Women in the Center). Here, culture is celebrated, created, and enjoyed. The 'Wirtschaft im Franz' entices with a cleverly designed surprise menu. Here, they serve ambition on a plate: modern, creative, yet wonderfully minimalist, simple, with a focus on top-notch ingredients. Always at the center: vegetables. The open kitchen, a lot of passion, and a team that values honest cuisine make the restaurant a delightful meeting point.
We had the opportunity to talk with Melanie Kempf and Sebastian Funck about simple cuisine, Michelin stars, good ingredients, and the local culinary treasures.
Good products, simple craftsmanship, no grand spectacle. That's also the philosophy of Wirtschaft im Franz. What defines your cuisine?
Both: Over the past ten years, we've built a small circle of producers with whom we work very closely. They supply us with exceptionally good basic products that make up a significant part of our cuisine. One could say these ingredients ground us and guide us in developing our dishes. We appreciate the focus on the essentials; for us, less is almost always more. What may sound like a cliché is something we take very seriously – a product with character, in our view, can be better highlighted when accompanied by a few components, rather than overwhelmed or distracted by unnecessary embellishments. We enjoy creating dishes around a seemingly simple, humble ingredient, such as an onion or a carrot, and try to tease out the point where a simple ingredient triggers an 'Aha' moment for guests.
You were awarded a Michelin star. Michelin star and 'Simple' – how does that fit together?
Both: Simplicity is deceptive; many invisible steps are behind our dishes. From research and communication with producers to weeks of refining a plate and, in the end, the daily mise en place. We were surprised ourselves that a star was awarded to us for our product-focused, seemingly straightforward kitchen without frills. We believe that Michelin is evolving and, in addition to focusing on kitchens that score with classical values, a certain etiquette, and a penchant for expensive luxury products, is increasingly examining establishments seeking more sustainable paths and using products that can be consumed with a clear conscience. We are a business that has something to say, and we notice that more and more people want to hear our stories. What's on my plate? Where does it come from? The gastronomy is changing; it has to find new ways to remain successful. No one can ignore the issue of 'resources' anymore. We have been grappling with the question of how to treat people and the environment more mindfully for a long time and strive to continually evolve. We find it very enriching that more and more restaurateurs are embarking on a journey to find a new future for our industry, while others continue to serve lobster and beef fillet as if there were no tomorrow.
You mention that you place the product at the center, not yourselves. What is your current favorite ingredient in the kitchen? And what are you doing with it?
Sebastian: Cardoon. A forgotten, stubborn vegetable that can surprise with its taste.
Melanie: The rutabaga. I find it fantastic that you can conquer hearts with a beet.
Italian cuisine is known for creating a fantastic meal from few but high-quality ingredients. Sun-ripened tomatoes, good olive oil, homemade pasta - not much more is needed for great happiness. How does that look here? What does simple cuisine in Switzerland or in Zurich have to offer?
Both: Italian cuisine, with its simplicity and focus on the product, is a significant source of inspiration for us. In Switzerland, we have so many excellent products that are on par with Italian ones: dried pears, Alpine cheese, rapeseeds, hemp oil, trout, ancient grains, dairy products, etc., etc. There is so much to discover and explore, often found directly from producers or in small organic stores rather than on supermarket shelves. Switzerland offers an exciting, simple regional cuisine, and fortunately, there are many chefs who address this topic in various ways: Peter Brunner, Sven Wassmer, Tine Giaccobo, Stefan Wiesner, just to name a few whose work we follow or have a connection to.
What advice do you have for home cooks out there? How can I cook at home to achieve a lot with little effort?
Both: Limit yourself to a few good products, buy them when they are in season, at the market, at the farm shop, or in small organic stores where you support small producers and know where your food comes from.
