Dirk Hany runs the 'Bar am Wasser', was named 'Bartender of the Year' by the 'Swiss Bar Awards' in 2020 and reveals in an interview with FOOD ZURICH how he sees the future of drinks.
Dirk Hany, do you also observe the trend that people are drinking less alcohol?
Yes, it is effectively the case that millennials are becoming more conscious of drinking less alcohol. One reason for this is certainly Healthy Living, which is being encouraged everywhere. You also notice it in meat consumption. More and more vegi concepts are opening up.
When do you abstain from alcohol and why?
For me, alcohol is pleasure. I only drink it when I feel like it. When I'm on the road by car or motorbike, I don't drink at all. My favourite drink is an alcohol-free 'Dark and Stormy' with the alcohol-free rum variant of the Swiss start-up Rebels, fresh lime juice and ginger beer.
What other non-alcoholic drinks do you find exciting?
I find all homemade non-alcoholic drinks very interesting. Cider in particular can be an insanely great food companion. It goes well with pork and grilled meats because it has a certain acidity. Why not serve a heavy cider instead of red wine with the roast?
What do you think of Hard Selzer?
Nothing at all! Alcohol with a little taste and carbonation - that's neither original nor does it need a bartender. And if someone wants to drink that at home, they'd better buy a bottle of vodka, mineral water and some quince. It's healthier because it has real fruit in it instead of just artificial flavours.
How do you see the future of drinks? On the one hand, the nostalgic drinkers of classic high-proof cocktails and on the other hand, those who order a kombucha with spaghetti vongole?
The alcohol drinkers will always exist. But the consumption of cocktails with little or no alcohol will increase. I think it will make somewhat the same acceptance curve as meat and vegi. At first people think non-alcoholic is stupid and suddenly they will realise that these alternatives are cool after all.
You had the idea that bars should also be awarded a Michelin star. why?
Our vision is to become the first bar with a Michelin star. But just: It's a vision and probably not possible at the moment. There are already a few awards worldwide where bars and bartenders are honoured - but still extremely few compared to all the great bars out there. You could use the star to determine an overall rating according to ambience, service and creations. And finally, it would be a nice recognition for all those who spend days tinkering with recipes, essences and fermentations.
Finally: What drink do you treat yourself to on a really cold, spooky January evening?
A glass of champagne. It really warms my heart...
